Tape up your corners
When gluing up something that will be hard to clean when complete, use masking tape to keep the squeezeout from messing up your project.
Glowforge CEO, Wharton Research Fellow, Robot Turtles creator, Proud Dad
When gluing up something that will be hard to clean when complete, use masking tape to keep the squeezeout from messing up your project.
Spalting is the decay left behind by a specific type of fungus. The wood must be harvested when the spalting is pronounced and visible, but wait too long and the wood loses its structural integrity.
The miter gage that came with your tablesaw wobbles several degrees. If you don’t believe me, stick a long skinny piece of wood against the nice, 90 degree flat surface, put it in the miter slot, and wiggle.
But what about the lining? You want spanish cedar. NOT any other kind of cedar, or your cigars will smell like a hamster cage. Spanish cedar is remarkably expensive for an otherwise-unremarkable softwood; it usually goes for about $5.50/bf in inconvenient thicknesses.
Take your favorite combination square. Adjust it so the ruler sticks out all the way. Hold the short end against your workbench, so it looks like |_ from the top, and draw a line. Now flip it over, so it looks like _|, and draw another line on top of it. Do the two lines…
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I had some dadoes that were cut with a dull blade, and consequently had some shreds of wood stuck to the sides. I took a cabinet scraper and ran it back and forth, shearing off a bit of the edge.
I coupled my 2′ pipes to the end of the not-quite-long-enough pipes and I was good to go.
One of the most annoying things about doing a glueup is cleaning up after yourself. Once those clamps have been tightened, you’ll have glue squeezing out all over the place, dripping everywhere. So how do you clean up the gluey mess? There are two approaches I’ve used.
Just found out that B&D is buying out Pentair’s tool group, which includes DeVilbiss (compressors), Oldham (sawblades), and the venerable Delta and Porter-Cable brands.